Ambergris is a solid, waxy, flammable substance of a dull grey or blackish color produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. It is used in perfumery as a fixative and as a prime component of the perfumes aroma. Here are some details about ambergris:
Positive aspects:
- Ambergris is a superlative fixative that gives depth and a halo-like glow to the finished perfume. It deepens the impact of all the other notes in a composition and extends the perfumes tenacity on skin.
- Its scent is exquisite and can have leathery, tobacco-like, woody, or camphorated facets.
- Ambergris was historically used in food and drink.
Negative aspects:
- Freshly excreted ambergris is soft, black, and dung-like in both shape and odor, and is practically useless as a perfumery ingredient.
- The lowest quality ambergris is soft in texture and black in color and typically has a strong "manure" odor, which many people would find offensive.
Ingredients or materials:
- Ambergris contains alkaloids, acids, and a specific compound called ambreine, which is similar to cholesterol. White crystals of a terpenoid known as ambrein, discovered by Ružička and Fernand Lardon in 1946, can be separated from ambergris by heating raw ambergris in alcohol, then allowing the resulting solution to cool. Breakdown of the relatively scentless ambrein through oxidation produces ambroxide and ambrinol, the main odor components of ambergris.
- The only synthetic raw materials with notes close to true ambergris are Firmenichs Cétalox and Ambroxan.
In conclusion, ambergris is a valuable substance in perfumery due to its fixative properties and exquisite scent. However, freshly excreted ambergris has a dung-like odor and low commercial value. The lowest quality ambergris has a strong "manure" odor, which many people would find offensive. Ambergris contains alkaloids, acids, and a specific compound called ambreine, which is similar to cholesterol.
