Short answer: Hydrangeas are typically pruned based on their bloom type, with timing mainly in late winter to early spring for most varieties, and after flowering for climbing types. The exact approach depends on whether the plant blooms on old wood or new wood. Below is a practical guide you can use.
Quick guidelines
- Most mophead (Hydrangea macrophylla) and lacecap hydrangeas bloom on last year’s wood. Prune in late winter to early spring, before new growth starts. If you prune now, you’ll help shape the plant without sacrificing next year’s blooms. If you skip pruning, your plant may become woody and crowded over time. Pruning too late can remove next year’s flower buds. This general rule aligns with expert gardening sources that emphasize late winter to early spring pruning for these types.
- Climbing hydrangeas (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris and related climbers) bloom on old wood but are best pruned after flowering in late summer to early autumn. This avoids cutting off the buds that will form next year’s blooms. Pruning after flowering helps maintain a strong, balanced vine without reducing flowering potential.
- Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood (some panicle types like certain Hydrangea paniculata, and some others) can be pruned in late fall after the plants go dormant or in early spring. These typically form flower buds on current-year wood, so pruning earlier won’t drastically reduce next year’s blooms.
When not to prune
- Avoid heavy pruning in late summer or fall if you want to preserve flower buds for the next season, especially for old-wood bloomers. Pruning too late can remove developing buds.
Practical steps
- Identify your hydrangea type:
- Mophead/Lacecap: prune in late winter/early spring to remove weak wood and shape, aiming for a few strong canes.
- Climbing: prune after flowering in summer, thinning and guiding growth as needed.
- Panicle (and some other new-wood bloomers): prune in late fall or early spring to shape and encourage new growth.
- For a light prune (to maintain shape): remove dead or damaged stems, cut back to a healthy bud about 1–2 inches above the bud union.
- For rejuvenation: you can remove some of the oldest stems at the base to encourage fresh growth over a few years, but this will reduce bloom in the short term if done aggressively on old-wood bloomers.
If you’d like, share what type of hydrangea you have (mophead/lacecap, climbing, or panicle) and roughly where you live, and a tailored pruning plan with exact timings for your climate can be provided.
