Bras, in the modern sense, were invented and patented in the early 20th century—most notably by Mary Phelps Jacob (Caresse Crosby) in 1914—though simpler chest-support garments existed in antiquity and 19th‑century precursors appeared earlier. Earlier forms include ancient Greek and Roman chest bands, and late‑19th‑century split corsets such as Herminie Cadolle’s two‑piece design in 1889, but the widely recognized “modern bra” traces to Jacob’s 1914 “Backless Brassiere” patent.
Ancient precursors
- In classical antiquity, women used fabric bands such as the Greek apodesmos/strophion and Roman strophium to bind or support the chest, as depicted in art like the fourth‑century “bikini girls” mosaic, indicating early bra‑like support garments.
- These wraps provided functional support but were not constructed bras with cups or closures as in modern designs.
19th‑century milestones
- In 1889, French designer Herminie Cadolle introduced a two‑piece undergarment separating the bust support from the waist—often cited as a step toward the modern bra.
- Other late‑19th‑century inventions, such as Marie Tucek’s 1893 “breast supporter,” experimented with cup‑like support, foreshadowing 20th‑century bras.
Modern bra invention
- Mary Phelps Jacob (later known as Caresse Crosby) patented the “Backless Brassiere” on November 3, 1914, creating a comfortable alternative to the corset using two handkerchiefs and ribbon; she later sold the patent to Warner Brothers Corset Company.
- Many fashion histories credit Jacob’s 1914 patent as the birth of the modern bra, even while acknowledging earlier European innovations and evolving terminology.
Quick timeline
- 4th century BCE–CE: Chest bands in Greece and Rome (apodesmos/strophion/strophium).
- 1889: Cadolle’s two‑piece undergarment separates bust support from corset structure.
- 1914: Mary Phelps Jacob receives the U.S. patent for the “Backless Brassiere,” widely regarded as the first modern bra.
